Rheghead
13-Aug-05, 21:22
One drizzley July morning, a friend of mine and I set off on a trip where probably very few Caithnessians have dared to tread, a coast to coast route from Reay to Dunbeath direct over the flow country. Here is our story...
We set off from Sandside harbour, it was over cast but dry. But by the time we got to Reay it was chucking it down! Well we made the decision to go so be it. :)
We headed for the Limekiln route, a forestry track in good cycling order. The only bad part of this was carrying our bikes over the deer gate. There is a combination padlock on it which is a pity. Once over the gate the cycling was good for 3km to a hut at Gleann Dubh. Another padlock and gate existed there but the track deteriated badly to make cycling impossible, all pushing from here. The heather had overgrown due to a lack of footpassengers. This track eventually ran out to just bog and heather.
Our feet soon got wet in the bog and blisters soon arrived, one step after step was a painful struggle but such was my determination to complete the journey we carried on. Black fly was our enemy now, they were in swarms!
We carried on south and headed eastwards along the south end of the forest to Loch Scye. A real slog this and along the west side of the loch to the fishing hut under the shadow of Bienn nam Bad Beag. We took the cyclable track eastwards and took the marked but non existent track southwards towards Loch Caluim. This track was a nightmare. We were knee deep in bog in places and the wind and drizzle was easing off so our fears turned from the terrain and black fly to my worst Highland fear...midges!
The route along the eastside of Loch Caluim was not too bad for pushing the bike as there was a hint of a track. At the southern end there were some very homey fishing and hunting huts. I thought how cosy it would be to stay there over night. From here we crossed Cnocglas water over the bridge and followed the track along Cnocloisgre water looking for a bridge. This bridge had rotted through, the sleepers had gone bar the railway lines that gave the support. My thoughts were on why bring such heavy girders up here but my now mutinying buddy informed me it was probably built by WW2 idle labour. He crossed the girder doing a balancing act with his bike but I am to much of a fearty so I just waded through the river, I was wet through anyway... The next stretch of track was surprisingly ridable fpr half a mile, it was well drained which makes a big difference but it just petered out to nothingness again and another hard slog southwards to the now sawn forest. A distantly spotted ladder over a deer fence indicated a welcome sight for weary travellers and our crossing point to the railway line. Once over the line the track was completely rideable again on good tracks. We took our first break at some picnic benches on the banks of Loch Caise. The track to Altnabreac station was a dream as was the route past the affluence of Lochdhu. Our route was Dalnawillan lodge, through the Glutt estate through some of the most breathtaking scenery I have every seen. Then onto Braemore where a brand new red telephone box has just been put up only days previously. Who said BT are only taking them down?
Finally the good lane to Dunbeath where we put up our tents at Inver caravan and camping site. The campsite is very much recommended and is under expansion and improvement at the moment. £3.75 per night, you can't be bit at that. The Inver arms is now under new management and serves very good meals with a cracking view over the Dunbeath Harbour. Back to the campsite with a wee nip of the hard stuff and after a few well deserved beers, night night!
We set off from Sandside harbour, it was over cast but dry. But by the time we got to Reay it was chucking it down! Well we made the decision to go so be it. :)
We headed for the Limekiln route, a forestry track in good cycling order. The only bad part of this was carrying our bikes over the deer gate. There is a combination padlock on it which is a pity. Once over the gate the cycling was good for 3km to a hut at Gleann Dubh. Another padlock and gate existed there but the track deteriated badly to make cycling impossible, all pushing from here. The heather had overgrown due to a lack of footpassengers. This track eventually ran out to just bog and heather.
Our feet soon got wet in the bog and blisters soon arrived, one step after step was a painful struggle but such was my determination to complete the journey we carried on. Black fly was our enemy now, they were in swarms!
We carried on south and headed eastwards along the south end of the forest to Loch Scye. A real slog this and along the west side of the loch to the fishing hut under the shadow of Bienn nam Bad Beag. We took the cyclable track eastwards and took the marked but non existent track southwards towards Loch Caluim. This track was a nightmare. We were knee deep in bog in places and the wind and drizzle was easing off so our fears turned from the terrain and black fly to my worst Highland fear...midges!
The route along the eastside of Loch Caluim was not too bad for pushing the bike as there was a hint of a track. At the southern end there were some very homey fishing and hunting huts. I thought how cosy it would be to stay there over night. From here we crossed Cnocglas water over the bridge and followed the track along Cnocloisgre water looking for a bridge. This bridge had rotted through, the sleepers had gone bar the railway lines that gave the support. My thoughts were on why bring such heavy girders up here but my now mutinying buddy informed me it was probably built by WW2 idle labour. He crossed the girder doing a balancing act with his bike but I am to much of a fearty so I just waded through the river, I was wet through anyway... The next stretch of track was surprisingly ridable fpr half a mile, it was well drained which makes a big difference but it just petered out to nothingness again and another hard slog southwards to the now sawn forest. A distantly spotted ladder over a deer fence indicated a welcome sight for weary travellers and our crossing point to the railway line. Once over the line the track was completely rideable again on good tracks. We took our first break at some picnic benches on the banks of Loch Caise. The track to Altnabreac station was a dream as was the route past the affluence of Lochdhu. Our route was Dalnawillan lodge, through the Glutt estate through some of the most breathtaking scenery I have every seen. Then onto Braemore where a brand new red telephone box has just been put up only days previously. Who said BT are only taking them down?
Finally the good lane to Dunbeath where we put up our tents at Inver caravan and camping site. The campsite is very much recommended and is under expansion and improvement at the moment. £3.75 per night, you can't be bit at that. The Inver arms is now under new management and serves very good meals with a cracking view over the Dunbeath Harbour. Back to the campsite with a wee nip of the hard stuff and after a few well deserved beers, night night!