View Full Version : Please can someone help
I bought my labrador cross pointer puppy 12 months ago shes 15 months now and I cant for the life of me walk her, shes managed to sprain my arm etc and then the other night she pulled and I landed on my back and its been sore ever since when we`re at home she needs to stay chained as she bolts if she gets the chance and our next door neighbours have animals and its not fair on them when she scares them.
When shes in the house shes still at the biting and chewing and has even snapped at our wee man so she spends most of her time outside for fear of what she will do to him.
Ive tried harnesses the lot im not sure what I can do now I kept thinking if I just gave her time to mature she would be fine but the older shes getting its the stronger and worse she is becoming.
Ive trained puppies before and ive never experienced anything like this does anyone have any ideas as im so worried we ll have to put her down if the problems cant be solved.
Tugmistress
14-Dec-09, 15:51
try a rolled up newspaper across the nose, it worked well for me with a very boisterous four year old GSD in both of the above situations.
Thank you for the advice its appreciated. I ll try that not sure where she gets her strength from I thought I was reasonabily strong but nothing compared to her.
She a lovely dog in her own way but all her bad behaviour over shadows this. x
Shabbychic
14-Dec-09, 15:58
Why not give Cesar Milan's (http://www.cesarsway.com/tips) site for hints and tips. You might find something on there that helps. :)
Thank you for that, im just going onto his site to have a read:D
Aaldtimer
14-Dec-09, 17:15
I see Cesar is touring UK next March...Glasgow SECC on the 14th!:)
hi,have you tried a halti?i use them on collies with great success.the act on the sensitive nose area so you dont have to pitch your strength against each other.good luck
Thanks for that the way im feeling me and my 4 legged friend will be off to see him:lol:
I see Cesar is touring UK next March...Glasgow SECC on the 14th!:)
Ive had the harness which goes over her front legs and round her waist but never tried anything around her nose. I will definatly try this also anything and everything is worth trying if it will work as I know she has potential of being a beautiful kind dog.
hi,have you tried a halti?i use them on collies with great success.the act on the sensitive nose area so you dont have to pitch your strength against each other.good luck
Thank you all so much for your help and kind advice which I appreciate and will definatly try.
Cant thank yous enough for taking the time to help:D xxx
Good tips from everyone and I really hope you are able to resolve the problems.
I would also suggest looking at her diet to make sure it doesn't include artificial colourings etc as this can really badly effect behaviour.
I feed Benjy on Naturediet and it made a big difference as, before this, he was just a little !:lol:
Also has she been spayed?
KEEP_ON_TRUCKIN
14-Dec-09, 18:46
have you been going to any training classes there are some good ones around the county - might be able to sort things out with a good trainer and support from the class??
I would agree with that too training classes :D
hi the problem with chewing is down to bordom ,and the pulling is a dominance thing ,if you dont sort the problem it will get worse,i sugest you see a tainer as soon as posible .:roll:
problem is the trainers ive seen don,t take dogs until they are at least 18 months old as I did think about this a while back.:(
KEEP_ON_TRUCKIN
14-Dec-09, 19:57
problem is the trainers ive seen don,t take dogs until they are at least 18 months old as I did think about this a while back.:(
Carolyne Poulton certainly rns puppy training classes..... I know that because my boss was taking her 5 month old Alsatian along to her! Carolyne is highly recomended too!
Phoenix200416
14-Dec-09, 20:21
I find if a dog pulling a body harness is the worse thing to use because it makes it easier for them to pull because they can throw all their weight into it. I have used halti's with good effect, though be careful that you get the right size as otherwise it can cause uncomfortable rubs on your dogs nose and mouth.
Thank you very much all the advice is appreciated what size halti should I be getting shes quite big even although shes still a puppy?
Also see the puppy trainer do you have a number I could contact her on please?:D
Thank you all so much at last i feel im getting somewhere.:)
I approached it a different way. I walked my pup between me and a wall. Every time the pup tried to get in front I cut in front and blocked with my leg. If the dog cannot get in front of you then it cannot pull.
If the dog is behind you then periodically say "heel" so she learns that is what it is called and offer a treat to make it worthwhile. If she cuts in front of you or tried to pull use the word no only (and never with her name).
If she does get in front of you and starts to pull, persistant tug-release, tug-release works better than hauling.
Another way to approach it (which takes more time) is to have a minimum 6 foot lead and hold it with a loop in it. When your dog pulls, drop the loop and go in the opposite direction (I believe CM advocates this too so there may be vids out there) call the dogs name and give a treat (dog must come to you for it). If your dog isn't food orientated, favourite toy and if your dog is like mine and couldn't care less then top techinque is probably best. Every time the dog pulls, switch direction. The aim is to keep the dog on its toes, wondering where on earth you are going next and how on earth can I get those lovely treats off mum!! It may take you an hour to do 100m but it is worth it.
Your pup doesn't know what is expected of it - that is the only reason she pulls. Even a boisterous dog (like mine) will walk with a slack lead if they are taught how. But if you slip up with your walking techniques and allow a pull just on one occasion (because you are in a rush for example) then you will and up going back to square one. Consistency is the key!
Good luck - keep a it! When it clicks for the dog you will realise its worth it :)
bullielove
14-Dec-09, 22:24
there is lots of good advice already which most of it I would second
- going in the opposite direction when your dog pulls is certainly worthwhile
- Haltis are excellent too - my rescue pulls like a steam train without it and like a little lamb with it
- and diet - the effects of additives on some dogs cannot be underestimated. things like bakers can be awful for the dogs behaviour. you may want to look at it and change the diet to something hypoallergenic as suggested above
for the chewing maybe somthing like a stuffed kong and lots of chew toys to keep her busy
is she fenced in at home?
i hope you get her sorted in time
Phoenix200416
14-Dec-09, 22:31
I approached it a different way. I walked my pup between me and a wall. Every time the pup tried to get in front I cut in front and blocked with my leg. If the dog cannot get in front of you then it cannot pull.
If the dog is behind you then periodically say "heel" so she learns that is what it is called and offer a treat to make it worthwhile. If she cuts in front of you or tried to pull use the word no only (and never with her name).
If she does get in front of you and starts to pull, persistant tug-release, tug-release works better than hauling.
Another way to approach it (which takes more time) is to have a minimum 6 foot lead and hold it with a loop in it. When your dog pulls, drop the loop and go in the opposite direction (I believe CM advocates this too so there may be vids out there) call the dogs name and give a treat (dog must come to you for it). If your dog isn't food orientated, favourite toy and if your dog is like mine and couldn't care less then top techinque is probably best. Every time the dog pulls, switch direction. The aim is to keep the dog on its toes, wondering where on earth you are going next and how on earth can I get those lovely treats off mum!! It may take you an hour to do 100m but it is worth it.
Your pup doesn't know what is expected of it - that is the only reason she pulls. Even a boisterous dog (like mine) will walk with a slack lead if they are taught how. But if you slip up with your walking techniques and allow a pull just on one occasion (because you are in a rush for example) then you will and up going back to square one. Consistency is the key!
Good luck - keep a it! When it clicks for the dog you will realise its worth it :)
Good advice Leanne. Some good techniques there which will give you good results with time, patience and consistancy.
As for halti size. It needs to sit comfortably on the bridge of the nose without riding up into the eyes or down and slipping off the nose into the mouth. The best way to get the right fit is go into a pet shop and ask if it would be possible to try some on your dog.
This is just a guess, so please don't quote me on this as it might be the wrong fit. My friends female lab was a 2. Just gives you an idea of what size to try on first.
I approached it a different way. I walked my pup between me and a wall. Every time the pup tried to get in front I cut in front and blocked with my leg. If the dog cannot get in front of you then it cannot pull.
If the dog is behind you then periodically say "heel" so she learns that is what it is called and offer a treat to make it worthwhile. If she cuts in front of you or tried to pull use the word no only (and never with her name).
If she does get in front of you and starts to pull, persistant tug-release, tug-release works better than hauling.
Another way to approach it (which takes more time) is to have a minimum 6 foot lead and hold it with a loop in it. When your dog pulls, drop the loop and go in the opposite direction (I believe CM advocates this too so there may be vids out there) call the dogs name and give a treat (dog must come to you for it). If your dog isn't food orientated, favourite toy and if your dog is like mine and couldn't care less then top techinque is probably best. Every time the dog pulls, switch direction. The aim is to keep the dog on its toes, wondering where on earth you are going next and how on earth can I get those lovely treats off mum!! It may take you an hour to do 100m but it is worth it.
Your pup doesn't know what is expected of it - that is the only reason she pulls. Even a boisterous dog (like mine) will walk with a slack lead if they are taught how. But if you slip up with your walking techniques and allow a pull just on one occasion (because you are in a rush for example) then you will and up going back to square one. Consistency is the key!
Good luck - keep a it! When it clicks for the dog you will realise its worth it :)
This does work and with horses too ! :D
neepnipper
14-Dec-09, 22:40
Carolyne Poulton's number is 078450 10031 her e-mail is carolyne.poulton@btinternet.com.
She is brilliant and will also do one to one training with you.
Thank you all so much ive had excellent advice and help and loads of ideas which I will try and some very kind offers of help.
I wish id put my faith in the org sooner as all the advice and support from each has been fantasic.
Diet I never even thought about ?? she gets pedigree chum tins and in between she does get bakers mixer but she also gets chicken when we have it and beef, pork etc never chicken bones though or lamb as it makes her sick.
Shes kept in our back garden and even although we built it up she can clear it shes amazing!!:lol:
Problem with treats is she has no intrest whatsoever in them when were out.
Will be going to pets at home tomorrow for a halti but im thinking I better not take her as if she smells the rabbits she will take off like a rocket and I have noway of stopping her....YET
The man we bought her off was a game keeper and he had 8 dogs running around when we picked her up all mixed breeds but used them as gundogs he said. I had a feeling she would be harder work than normal but I felt sorry for her and couldnt leave her so we paid and left.
I keep wondering if shes lonely as now shes our only dog.:confused
Phoenix200416
14-Dec-09, 23:20
Personally I think getting another dog for her just now wouldn't help her or the new dog. Its something you can think about later one when you have managed to calm her down, or at least get some control :lol: :)
I think giving Carolyne a call would be an excellent idea. I have never had the pleasure of getting her help, but I have heard nothing but good things about her. Nothing ventured nothing gained after all!
You could always ask if it would be possible to exchange the halti for a different size if the one you try doesn't fit right. Something that never occured to me for some reason. Stupid me, she pulls like a steam train and I'm advising you to take her into a pet shop! Sorry about that! I'm going to blame my having the flu for that brain malfunction.
As for the lack of interest in food. you could always stop feeding her in her bowl for a while and give her food by hand as a reward so she has to work for it. It will help get her brain working and you could teach her some other stuff as well. Might be a good idea to start with sit, stay, down e.t.c in the house so she gets the idea that you will give her food for a desired behaviour before moving outside to walking practise where she is not interested in the food.
neepnipper
14-Dec-09, 23:27
If you go in Pets at Home they'll advise on what size Halti you need and will happily exchange it if it doesn't fit.
I would also advise putting her on to a good quality dried food, at the moment you're feeding her tins plus Bakers which isn't a mixer it's a complete food, mixing tins and complete dried food isn't a good idea as they digest at different rates, plus she's getting a mixture of other bits and pieces. I'd stick to just the dried food and a good quality one, Bakers can make some dogs a bit hyper. When you go in Pets at Home ask them to show you the different dried foods available, they have sample packs as well.
You will get there with her, be patient, give Carolyne a call and keep us informed of progress!
Baker's is the dog equivalent of MacDonalds! I used to get it for my fussy dogs and they were loopy on it. It has the highest protein of any of the foods. Try switching to something with less protein - ideally 18-19%. For high energy dogs working dog food can be really good as it provides the energy without the explosiveness.
Do you have anyone you can take her for a blast with their dog? To get rid of the beans before you concentrate on the walking... I'm in Watten if you want to give her a run in my fields with my two. I've got two sociable lurchers who could do a good job of tiring her out :)
definately go to Carolyne Poulton......our lad has gone from ravenous house destroyer to gun dog training in a matter of weeks.
cuddlepop
15-Dec-09, 10:11
This has been a mine of information for me too.Thanks for all your input.
Our son has been walking the dogs for a few weeks now with the result that Scorrie has got all his old habits back:(
Consistencey is so important regardless of who's walking your dog.
I never thought of it before but with a harness on our dog,s a bit like a sleigh dog so will be buying a halti.
Only advice that was missing was how to stop chasing wee birds as ours is terrible.
I live in fear of the yelp as he flys off the edge of the hill.:eek:
stewart4364
15-Dec-09, 10:22
Try Dave Ashpool out at Mey. He is very good at training dogs.
Thank you all so much ive had excellent advice and help and loads of ideas which I will try and some very kind offers of help.
I wish id put my faith in the org sooner as all the advice and support from each has been fantasic.
Diet I never even thought about ?? she gets pedigree chum tins and in between she does get bakers mixer but she also gets chicken when we have it and beef, pork etc never chicken bones though or lamb as it makes her sick.
Shes kept in our back garden and even although we built it up she can clear it shes amazing!!:lol:
Problem with treats is she has no intrest whatsoever in them when were out.
Will be going to pets at home tomorrow for a halti but im thinking I better not take her as if she smells the rabbits she will take off like a rocket and I have noway of stopping her....YET
The man we bought her off was a game keeper and he had 8 dogs running around when we picked her up all mixed breeds but used them as gundogs he said. I had a feeling she would be harder work than normal but I felt sorry for her and couldnt leave her so we paid and left.
I keep wondering if shes lonely as now shes our only dog.:confused
I think she is a working dog ,not suitable as a pet............sorry.It might be better to find a working home for her,the poor dog is bored/frustrated.
I know u are doing ur very best for her,so I am certainly not criticising.I t just sounds like u have major problems.I am not sure that keeping her in the garden is good for her .........why keep a pet like that?
At least in a working home,her brain and body would be kept very active.
I really hope u find a solution...........
Birdie Wife
15-Dec-09, 11:34
Problem with treats is she has no intrest whatsoever in them when were out.
If she's not interested in treats, you could try using a toy as a reward instead - or try walking her before a meal - she might be more responsive to food treats when she's hungry.
I have a working cocker pup and she's high energy too, so I know where you're coming from - she is a lovely pet but she needs a heck of a lot of running to keep her calm indoors.
I think there's no magic bullet here - it'll be a mixture of the right kind of training, the right diet, and lots of exercise. Please, please don't hit her nose with rolled up paper :(... there's much better ways of getting her to behave... and Cesar Milan's methods should only be used by a trained professional (on his programmes he does say this, every episode) as they are really negative. I'm not saying this from a sentimental point of view, making a dog respect you is not about using force to dominate them, it's about working as a partnership, setting strict rules and limitations for the dog and sticking to them. Using positive methods like clicker training has much more lasting effects than negative training methods.
No thank you I appreciate your advice,
Everything you have stated in your post is what ive been worrying about. Its not fair at all her being in the garden and also im starting to think shes a working dog as her nose leads her everywhere its just I want to try every avenue before I consider rehoming her as im so attached to her and would be heartbroken if I never gave her a proper chance to show who she is.
Its such a hard situation if It wasnt that I had neighbours she could run free though I have a big garden she could do with a big farm to run on as she has so much energy to burn and wants to explore.
mmmmm
I think she is a working dog ,not suitable as a pet............sorry.It might be better to find a working home for her,the poor dog is bored/frustrated.
I know u are doing ur very best for her,so I am certainly not criticising.I t just sounds like u have major problems.I am not sure that keeping her in the garden is good for her .........why keep a pet like that?
At least in a working home,her brain and body would be kept very active.
I really hope u find a solution...........
That was a kind reply,did not want to upset u in any way.But perhaps for her,a working home might be the answer.
I do understand it will be upsetting for the family...........but worth thinking about.Please let us know how things go.Take care.;)
How's it going? Any updates? *hugs*
Sorry ive not been in touch with yous in a while its just been so hectic with xmas coming up trying to plan everything is a nightmare:)
Im going to take some lovely offers ive had on dog walking with people in the new year and ive also got her diet changed now to see if it helps calm her down a bit and halti is on its way so we will definatly be getting somewhere at last. thanks for all the help and i ll keep the post open so I can keep you all informed.:)
bullielove
18-Dec-09, 19:27
Sorry ive not been in touch with yous in a while its just been so hectic with xmas coming up trying to plan everything is a nightmare:)
Im going to take some lovely offers ive had on dog walking with people in the new year and ive also got her diet changed now to see if it helps calm her down a bit and halti is on its way so we will definatly be getting somewhere at last. thanks for all the help and i ll keep the post open so I can keep you all informed.:)
aww Im delighted to hear that you have a plan of things that may help. It will be great to hear how you get on! Thinking of you and your girl and fingers crossed :D
Well done for working so hard to help your dog and I really hope it pays off.
Sure it will!:D
Well done for working so hard to help your dog and I really hope it pays off.
Well done from me too :) The offer still stands - if you want my two to tire her out for you they're very good at it ;) People love it when we meet them on walks as my two run rings around most dogs (quick lurchers) and the owner takes their dog home exhausted with very little effort :)
I bought my labrador cross pointer puppy 12 months ago shes 15 months now and I cant for the life of me walk her, shes managed to sprain my arm etc and then the other night she pulled and I landed on my back and its been sore ever since when we`re at home
1 ) get a well fitting halti. Its basically a halter for a dog. If you can control a horse with one you can control a dog easily. about 9 pounds in a pet shop.
she needs to stay chained as she bolts if she gets the chance and our next door neighbours have animals and its not fair on them when she scares them.
2) ensure your fences are dog proof. to have a dog tied up isnt good for the dogs well being or yours.
When shes in the house shes still at the biting and chewing and has even snapped at our wee man so she spends most of her time outside for fear of what she will do to him.
3)sounds like she needs basic training and loads of excersise and love and attention, most dogs will snap if they have no other way of telling another being they want left alone..is your wee man a dog or a child. as if it is a child it is unfair to expect all dogs or children to get along together friom the start. a young dog is like a young child, manners are leaned not there from conception.
Ive tried harnesses the lot im not sure what I can do now I kept thinking if I just gave her time to mature she would be fine but the older shes getting its the stronger and worse she is becoming.
if its a working breed off working lines the work drive may be too muchnof a pull.
Ive trained puppies before and ive never experienced anything like this does anyone have any ideas as im so worried we ll have to put her down if the problems cant be solved.
never think you have to put your dog down ever!
If you are seriously thinking along these lines PM me and I can help you find a foster home / alternative to whats going on now.
what you really need is advice from an apdt trainer.
there doesnt appear to be any in highland but Im sure if you email them they will give you invaluable info on dog training.
http://www.apdt.co.uk/trainers_area.asp?area=Scotland%20-%20Aberdeenshire
its all positive stuff.. not that outdated pack mentality ceasar milan crap.
to reward is better than to punish. be it in human or canine lives.
good luck x jean
ps feel free to pm me, Ill try and help you best I can.
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