Help with car bodywork

[porshiepoo]

OK I decided today was the day when I was going to 'have a go' at the rusty rear wheel arch on my car.
I have all the sanding paper, primer, paint, top coat etc etc ready and waiting.
In anticipation of a hole or two I also bought a glass fibre repair kit this morning.

Anyways, the hole is just the one. However that one hole is very long :eek: and I also discovered that the wheel arch is double skinned with nothing between - wasn't expecting that!

Here's what I need help with.
Am I right in assuming that glass fibre cannot be applied from the front/top of the bodywork but has to be applied from behind? If so then my newly purchased kit is of no use as I cannot get behind due to the double skin.

Next: If I buy some aluminium mesh to bridge the repair (I assume I will be able to insert this behind and use some sort of 'thing' to help keep it in place while I fill) what filler do I need to get to fill in? I was going to buy some Isopon P40 but figured I best ask first.

I know most people will suggest cutting and welding a new piece but I just want the car to look presentable for a wee while, it isn't going to last forever.

Anyone able to offer advice???

[ducati]

Sorry to tell you this Porshie but you really are wasting your time.

I would try to source a repair panel or wing (poss second hand) and have a competent welder replace it. To fill it will take ages to get a decent finish and the rust will come back within weeks.

What kind of car is it?

[Even Chance]

Youve bought the stuff already- go for it.
Pack a cloth or newspaper into the hole and clap the filler on top to fill it out to the edges. Your only looking for a cowboy fix to get by, not a showroom job.
The cloth will stop the filler going right through. Ive seen all sorts thrown into a dent or hole before filler is applied. (just to keep the car going a wee while longer)
Yes, structurally it is weaker, but its a back arch, so who cares.

Lash the filler on and sand back to flush when its dry. Then bang on the primer and the paint on top of that. DONT use masking tape, as it only leaves a hard line which looks keich. Spray using a piece of cardboard as a mask, held twa inches off the paint surface. This gives a soft edge to the paint which blends in better.

Go for it and have a good crack doing it!

[ducati]

Reminder to self, don't buy a car from Even Chance :lol:

[Even Chance]

Reminder to self, don't buy a car from Even Chance

Actually, I am restoring an old classic car, but doing it the proper way. Have you ever welded in new panels (not patches) lead-loaded a car (instead of filler), and prepped and sprayed it yourself????

Im giving the poor ane advice on the real cowboy way to do it! May not be to yer cup o tea, but It will certainly work. They have already spent a fortune on the stuff to bodge it nicely, but hit a wee snag. Ive seen the "pros" doing this afore too:eek:
Cars in Caithness were given all sorts of "treatments" to keep them going years ago!:D

All good crack ye ken:D

PS -

Yep use P40 for the final filler.

[upolian]

You need to grind another 1inch around the affected area fibreglass sticks to bare metal not paint,if you want to bridge it with mesh thats no problem,you can apply fibreglass from the outside,use a marine filler for the top coat filler as it will not produce air pockets and be alot smoother,

personal preference would be to weld a panel in....

If in doubt pm me ill happily give you a helping hand with it :)

[porshiepoo]

Wow, thanks for all the replies guys! :)

Ducati, I know that welding a piece on would probably be the only way of ensuring it doesn't come back and who knows, maybe in the future if my little bodge job looks diabolical I may just have to go down that road. lol

Evenchance, thanks for the spraying tip. I must admit I did wonder whether masking tape would create a tide mark as such. I'll certainly be trying it your way.
As for what to fill the hole with I think a pair of me knickers may just do it :eek:

Upolian, do you mean that I can actually apply the fibreglass to the outside of the bodywork?
Would this do away with a need for mesh and filler?
Hubby used to do a lot of glass fibre flat roof systems so I know he could do a decent job I just didn't realise it could be applied to the bodywork (if that is what you meant).

I think this car has had some kind of bodge repair done before cos there were a couple of blobs of some kind of filler in the hollow between the skins.
Wonder if my knickers will do a better job of holding it all together. lol. (Just kidding, I wouldn't..........or would I )

[upolian]

Wow, thanks for all the replies guys! :)

Ducati, I know that welding a piece on would probably be the only way of ensuring it doesn't come back and who knows, maybe in the future if my little bodge job looks diabolical I may just have to go down that road. lol

Evenchance, thanks for the spraying tip. I must admit I did wonder whether masking tape would create a tide mark as such. I'll certainly be trying it your way.
As for what to fill the hole with I think a pair of me knickers may just do it :eek:

Upolian, do you mean that I can actually apply the fibreglass to the outside of the bodywork?
Would this do away with a need for mesh and filler?
Hubby used to do a lot of glass fibre flat roof systems so I know he could do a decent job I just didn't realise it could be applied to the bodywork (if that is what you meant).

I think this car has had some kind of bodge repair done before cos there were a couple of blobs of some kind of filler in the hollow between the skins.
Wonder if my knickers will do a better job of holding it all together. lol. (Just kidding, I wouldn't..........or would I )

You need to bridge the hole with the mesh and fibreglass,if you grind the paint back to bare metal (taking care you dont heat the area up to much and warp the area),the fibreglass needs a good surface to stick to 'baremetal' it can be stuck on the outside yes,but you do have to have it bridged or the fibreglass will just collapse,put the fibreglass on thin no need to slap it on thick....

once its dry make sure its shy of the exsisting bodywork,your ready for fillers then,again apply very thin no need to clatter it on,once the filler is dried and you have sanded it back....spray some grey primer around the filled area,this will tell you if the filler is flush or still protruding the existing bodywork(the edge will stand out if not flush)make sure you dont sand the top coat filler with anything to abrasive as when its painted,the sun can show up the sand marks! Sorry im in a rush to get back to work if you need anymore help pm me and ill reply asap.:)

[ducati]

If you are going to use knickers (and I see no good reason not to) remember to take them off first and make sure there is no elastic hanging down inside or it could get caught on something and you'll find you are suddenly going backwards at 90 MPH or being overtaken by a bicycle :eek:

[EDDIE]

OK I decided today was the day when I was going to 'have a go' at the rusty rear wheel arch on my car.
I have all the sanding paper, primer, paint, top coat etc etc ready and waiting.
In anticipation of a hole or two I also bought a glass fibre repair kit this morning.

Anyways, the hole is just the one. However that one hole is very long :eek: and I also discovered that the wheel arch is double skinned with nothing between - wasn't expecting that!

Here's what I need help with.
Am I right in assuming that glass fibre cannot be applied from the front/top of the bodywork but has to be applied from behind? If so then my newly purchased kit is of no use as I cannot get behind due to the double skin.

Next: If I buy some aluminium mesh to bridge the repair (I assume I will be able to insert this behind and use some sort of 'thing' to help keep it in place while I fill) what filler do I need to get to fill in? I was going to buy some Isopon P40 but figured I best ask first.

I know most people will suggest cutting and welding a new piece but I just want the car to look presentable for a wee while, it isn't going to last forever.

Anyone able to offer advice???

If it aint broken leave it thats my saying?
If your car is rotten there were else is it rotten it might be time to get rid of it if the car is going to start needing a lot of work for its mot

[porshiepoo]

If it aint broken leave it thats my saying?
If your car is rotten there were else is it rotten it might be time to get rid of it if the car is going to start needing a lot of work for its mot


It's not so bad that it would have affected an MOT, it's more cosmetic but I wanted to get it sorted before it got worse.

Ducati, I've had to ditch the knicker idea I'm afraid. I can just imagine the embarrassment if I end up having to take it to a body repair shop for a weld later in life and they end up pulling my great kacks out the arch :eek:.
Having said that, I could get hubby to take it. lol.

Upolian, thanks for the info. I think I understand it all now, can't wait to give it a go.